Sometimes when I’ve spent a zillion hours dyeing the fibre, spinning fine singles yarn, then plying the yarn (ending up with half or even a third of the original yardage) and then soaking and setting the yarn… I feel done. All I want to do is just want to rest and stare at the lovely yarn I’ve spun. My eyes travel along each strand of the yarn, inspecting the twist, the consistency (if any!), and the oh so subtle shift in hue. It’s literally mesmerizing. And then the handspun yarn that I’ve lifted to “too precious” heights ends up sitting there on the shelf for ages, admired and loved from afar. It’s too bad, because handspun yarn calls out to be used.

When you made the yarn, didn’t you have things in mind for it? Didn’t you design it as a 3-ply instead of 2-ply because it would be stronger? Incorporate nylon binder for added durability? Did you strip the handpainted roving lengthwise or crosswise to select for colours? Of course. When you spun the yarn, you designed it for a purpose that was already in your mind. Sure, sometimes it’s relaxing to spin mindless bits of gobbledygook, but most of the time, I have reasons for all the teeny tiny decisions I made during the handspinning process.

Lately, I’ve been going through my handspun yarn stash determined that no yarn is too precious to use. And so some of the very first Navajo-plied handspun yarn that was originally destined for socks is now being knit into Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Baby Surprise Jacket. Actually, my thinking was that this lovely yarn was too nice to be pushed into boots and worn underfoot. Now, I do think that I’ve muffed the instructions for the jacket though… forgetting where I left the instruction book for a few days and trying to figure it out on my own… never a good idea. I see that they have these BSJ “Row Keeper” notes on Ravelry… seems like a good idea. I’ll have to go back and start counting.

Handspun yarns in weaving… I think I had always heard not to put handspun yarn in the warp, but really, it’s about making decisions while spinning that will make your handspun suitable for weaving. Warp yarn needs to be strong (handspun or not, cashmere yarn in the warp REALLY blows), so that it can withstand high tension and abrasion by the reed and heddles. So make your joins in the handspun yarn nice and strong. Plying your yarn adds strength too, although Paula Simmons swears by singles yarn (says she’s never plied in her life). And if you really want to put slubby singles on your loom as warp, maybe try to find heddles that will stretch or bend to accommodate the yarn (like texsolv…).

Yesterday, I received a shipment of the new Schacht Cricket Looms and managed to quickly warp one up with my handspun merino and silk yarn. I know some weavers will turn up their noses at rigid heddle looms, especially one that is tiny and only 10″ wide, but rigid heddle weaving is seriously one of the quickest ways for people to see how weaving works. I was able to build the loom, warp it, and start weaving on it within an hour. It’s a good, inexpensive way to dip your toe in the water and see if the weaving bug bites. For me, it offers nearly instant gratification to see my handspun in woven fabric.

Handspun yarn is beautiful. It’s full of life and precious… but nothing is too precious to use and enjoy.

Also on the schedule are classes in drop spindling and wheel spinning! A few years ago, I realized that the commercial yarns I fell in love with were too expensive for me to buy and so I learned to dye and spin my own yarns to my own preferences and specifications. Learn to make your own handspun and you’ll be able to create exactly what you want, starting with the materials and colours you love. Ultimately, you free your creativity. I have included Louet Octo Drop Spindles in the drop spindle class, but you can always upgrade to a Schacht Hi-Lo Spindle if you prefer. And in the wheel spinning class, you are welcome to bring your own wheel or use one of our wheels — a Schacht Ladybug, Louet Victoria, or Louet Julia.

We’re also running three special spinning classes in spinning for sock yarn, spinning luxurious and exotic fibres, and also colour for spinners. Colour for Spinners is something I’ve always wanted to run… a full day of playing with the drum carder, combs, blending solids to get marls, and stripping handpainted rovings for self-striping yarns!

• » See the complete schedule of classes on our Google Calendar
• » Register for classes online here

Also new this season is our SweetGeorgia Fibre Club! We are currently taking a limited number of club members for this February to April offering of unique hand-dyed fiber. Each month, an exclusive colourway will be delivered to your doorstep for your handspinning (or felting) joy. I’ll be setting up a little blog, Ravelry and Flickr groups for this, so keep a look out for it.

Being snowed in by crazy (CRAZY) Vancouver weather over the past few weeks has actually allowed me time to work on my own projects. I’m actually slowly back to knitting and I started this tiny little February Baby Sweater over the holidays. It’s knit in two strands of SweetGeorgia Superfudge yarn, a light fingering weight yarn, that has been kettle dyed in lac. Similar to another natural bug dye, cochineal, lac is a small scale insect that can be found on Ficus trees. It gives a more muted colour than cochineal and results in a beautiful rose or burgundy colour. The EZ pattern is (pithy and) dead easy which also helps.

Finally, thank you to everyone who responded to my last post on gratitude. I am very pleased to announce that Sulicat, self-proclaimed fibre enthusiast and creative dork, was our randomly selected winner for the bloggy, yarny prize.

Following Elizabeth Zimmerman’s short letters and instructions, I was delighted to read her closing words… “Keep knitting and stay calm.” With all that is shiny and new this year, there is also excitement and nervousness… I am anticipating good things… and will keep knitting and stay calm.

This moment was hard-won. I mean, I had to seam and rip out the sleeves THREE TIMES. I think I was jinxed! Yesterday, Liza commented _”Do you even make mistakes?”_ and the answer is YES!

Try #1: I completely finished sewing in the first sleeve to find that I sewed it in _upside down._ Yes, yes, very funny. Try #2: The sleeves are different sizes because I used circs on one and DPNs on the other. In try #2, I tried seaming the larger sleeve to the smaller armhole. Hand slaps forehead. Try #3: I tried seaming the larger sleeve to the larger armhole, but did so unevenly, so it still didn’t fit. At least I learn from my mistakes.

Next time I do a steeked sweater, I will definitely:

* do a Three-Needle Bind Off to seam the shoulders together. In this sweater, I fake grafted the shoulder seams. Not the most fun I’ve ever had.
* pick up and knit the sleeves down from the body. Even though I finally go the hang of seaming the sleeves and did a pretty nice job (if I say so myself), it’s not fun either.
* be consistent — either knit everything DPNs or circs. One or the other. I didn’t realize that the needles could change my gauge so much!

Thank you [Wendy](http://www.wendyknits.net) for designing the perfect project to start my fair isle and steeking adventures!

I’m knitting this in some Rowan All Seasons Cotton that I picked up at Knitopia on the weekend. I think the colour is discontinued since I can’t find it on my latest Rowan shade cards. Oh, it’s Monday morning and my brain is totally fogged. I don’t even think this coffee is doing the trick.

Have you seen [Diana's](http://www.streetsandyos.com/archives/2005/08/baby_norgi_1.php) version? It’s beautiful.

I don’t know if you can tell but the sleeve on top is bigger than the sleeve underneath. The difference? I initially used 3mm Addi’s and the magic loop technique, but I was finding that some of the stitches were getting distorted and ugly. So on the second sleeve, I decided to use 3mm Crystal Palace bamboo DPNs (which was a lot easier!) and looky, looky, I got a different gauge. Ah well. I learn the hard way.

In any case, the only thing that remains is cutting the steeks!

If you look closely, there’s a darker line in the background of the moose/trees picture. Why? I got curious and tried to “weave” rather than “float”. Bad idea. The woven colour tends to peek through and show on the right side. Even when the colour doesn’t show through, it’s positioned so close to the cream colour that you and kind of “see through” the cream.

Why did I try weaving? Well, traditionally in fair isle you don’t carry a colour more than an inch (7 or 9 stitches or so). In this pattern, there are some pretty long floats that I thought would look wonky, so I tried to secure the floats better by weaving. I don’t know if Norwegian patterns have this rule against long floats, but in any case I won’t be weaving anymore.

I started the tiny tiny sleeve and I’m using magic loop rather than DPNs. I think the magic loop may be distorting the fabric a little because the circumference is _so_ tiny. Some DPNs might be on the shopping list now.